La Cruz de Huanacaxtle

December 28, 2007

(Google earth N20 44.9 W105 22.7)

I have been in a slip at the new Marina La Cruz, www.marinalacruz.net , for about 3 weeks now. As planned, Greg and Cherie' left Snow Goose to re join our mutual friends, Rennie and Ann, aboard Cassiopeia, a beautiful Swan 65, berthed at Marina Paradise in Nuevo Vallarta.

Marina La Cruz is still under construction: only the slips are partially completed. We have electricity and, on most days, water. You can’t drink the water straight from the dock. It must be purified first. I do that as a matter of course on Snow Goose by bringing the water aboard through two very fine filters before passing it through a UV sterilizing chamber. It enters the tanks pure, but must then be chlorinated for long term storage (more than a few days).

The marina grounds are under construction from 7am until after dark. The slips are mostly empty. I predict that in a year or two this marina will look just like those in Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas: filled with sport fishing boats, parachute rides and tourists, sporting Gringo restaurants and upscale shops in every direction. What a shame it will be if that happens (except for those who will prosper by the money flowing here).

The town of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle is a typical small Mexican beach town which has seen little development until this marina. And for me, right now, it is a minor paradise. Like all of this part of Mexico, it has warm days and cool nights. It has cobblestone streets with mud-filled pot holes. Most blocks have one or two small, family run stores selling an eclectic assortment of inexpensive goods. The laundry I have been using also has a display case of ladies’ shoes. Most streets have small markets with an incomplete assortment of food items. It frequently requires a visit to two or more stores to complete a simple grocery list. It is in these details that the small town charm of La Cruz is seen. These will disappear with the completion of the marina and the infusion of money to follow.

I've spent the last three Friday evenings at the Black Forest Restaurant listening to Gypsy guitar music in a courtyard style restaurant owned by a German couple. Two nights ago I had an equally excellent meal in a small Mexican restaurant located in the open air basement of a Mexican family's house. No English was spoken by our server, the high school age daughter of the owners. Every second block in this town sports a restaurant similar to one of these. I've tried most of them now and they are all good!

Chacala

We arrived at the oceanfront town of Chacala, population about 300, on November 27. From the anchorage, this is a picture perfect tropical paradise.

Going ashore requires first extending two air filled tires on the stern of the dinghy, then (not) riding a wave as it breaks just offshore. If it is done right, just as the bow of the dinghy touches the bottom, everyone jumps out into 2-3 feet of warm ocean and pulls the dinghy ashore ...BEFORE the next wave comes from behind and swamps you. If done wrong, you will ride the face of the wave you neglected to stay well ahead of and very likely be swamped by that wave as you near shore. Practice, practice.

Ashore are several palapas (thatch roofed restaurants) waiting to serve Mexican breakfast, lunch and dinner. A scattering of small stores has minimal necessities for restocking boat supplies. I asked the owner of the palapa with wi fi service, where we spent the warmest part of each day, to get me some chicken for the boat. She sold me eight 1/2 chickens for about $2 per pound. They're in the freezer now.

We are daily joined ashore by the crews of several other boats here with us: La Sirena, Capricorn Cat and Jake among them.

More from Isabela

Isla Isabela

November 14, 2007-11-19

We finally tired of the bustle of Cabo San Lucas so departed the anchorage last night just after midnight, in order to arrive at our next stop, Isla Isabela, mid-day on the 15th (after a 37 hour passage). It is always best to enter a new harbor in the daylight, and preferably with the sun high in the sky. This we did, and so set out anchors (bow and stern) on the volcanic rock seabed that is the most protected anchorage at Isabela.


November 19, 2007

We’ve been at Isla Isabela for four days now and will stay for several more. Isabela is a marine and bird sanctuary managed by the Mexican government. It was cleaned up several years ago after many years of neglect. It is beautiful, rough, isolated (45 miles from San Blas on the mainland), and home to Boobies of several varieties, Frigate birds, and Iguanas. It also has a transient population of Mexican fishermen who go out several times a day in pangas (small boats) to tend their long lines. We bought several red snapper from one panga yesterday (our fishing success is terrible) which we barbequed for last nights dinner party. Our guests were the crew of Capricorn Cat: Wayne, Carol, Christian, and Mary, who are anchored nearby.


November 21

Bread is baking today on Snow Goose. Another hike today. Same birds…..

November 22

Thanksgiving Day

Dinner today was aboard Capricorn Cat with Wayne, Carol, and Mary. The crews of 3 other boats joined us: Endless Summer, La Sirena, Eupsychia, and Solstice. Everyone brought something. We brought fresh baked bread, wine and yams. The “turkey” was a nice Dorado that Wayne traded for with the “pangueros” (local commercial fishermen).

November 24

Finally sated with the natural beauty of Isla Isabela, we motored 45 miles today to Mantanchen Bay, Nayarit, Mexico. It’s on the mainland north of Puerto Vallarta. On the way we caught our first “keeper”, a nice Dorado which we will BBQ one of these nights. After anchoring, we took a long dinghy ride into San Blas for a quick look around the “real” Mexican town. No touristas other than ourselves. There’s an internet café for us to visit tomorrow.
San Blas is our first taste of tropical Mexico: Palm trees, mountains, warm breezes and occasional rain. Showers last night left a couple inches of fresh water in the dinghy and nicely rinsed Snow Gooses’ topsides (and everything we left drying on the lifelines).

November 27

Sailed from San Blas to Chacala today: a 4 hour spinnaker reach in perfect conditions. San Bals was near paradise. Chacala IS paradise. Photos later...I got sand in my camera.

November 28

We had planned to stay here only one or two nights. That will not be enough time.

Sitting, relaxing, waiting...

Today we relax at anchor. We finally launched the dinghy to avoid paying the $50 peso ($5 US) taxi fee (each way) to shore. Then, for the first time since we got here, the winds picked up to 18 knots, making the one mile dinghy ride a guaranteed e-ticket, waterslide ride. We’ll wait for drier conditions.

Property in Turtle Bay

I may have found what I am looking for after Snow Goose....a little paint, a few pictures on the wall...

Awards Party

The awards party was held last night. Much fun, good stories, and free beer. We captured a 2^nd place for our sailing/motoring performance over the three legs. The first place award for our section went to Talion, a Gulfstar 50, skipper Patsy Verhoeven, who sailed the entire course…NO MOTORING!! An amazing performance requiring great patience in the light airs we were plagued with during the 2^nd and 3^rd legs. I had no such patience, so arrived at each destination hours ahead of Talion, but paid the price by officially finishing 2^nd. Still, there was the FREE BEER.

November 10, 2007

David left to go back to work, and 767 Captain training, this morning. Minutes later, and just as I finished moving the boat to a quieter part of the anchorage, Greg arrived by water taxi. He was accompanied by Cherie, his girl friend, who will join us for the sail to Isla Isabela and on to Banderas Bay (Puerto Vallarta).

Tonight is the awards party. We will find out how well we sailed compared to other boats in our class. It’s a friendly competition, but then, any time two sailboats are sailing within sight of each other, it’s a race. Egos are at stake. Good thing I’m above all that.

Notes from the sail to Cabo San Lucas

October 27, 2007

Carolyn informed me this morning that she would not be leaving San Diego aboard Snow Goose. I am not sure why she made this choice, especially after all the hard work she put in during the previous six weeks. Perhaps it was the all work, no play atmosphere. Either way, I now need one more crew to make three. My former co-pilot, David Zogg, is due in tomorrow, making it possible to continue with two onboard, but three makes all things easier.

10-28-2007

Today, at the Ha Ha party, I ran into an old acquaintance, Rennie Waxlax, who has sailed this course several times. He introduced me to a young friend of his, Greg Retkowski, who has also done this several times and is an accomplished racing/cruising sailor. Greg thought about my crew situation for a few moments and then offered to go along to Cabo San Lucas. I agreed on the spot. Problems come, and then, poof, they go!

10-30-2007

The Ha Ha started on time yesterday, and we started with it. By evening, we were miles ahead of all but the fastest boats. The winds built to 15-25 knots overnight, and by 5am we needed to take down the spinnaker before it took itself down in small pieces. We did. It didn’t. And all was well!

We ran downwind all day (30^th) wing and wing, making great time and increasing our lead on all but 5 boats (out of 178). The speeds we sailed at put some stress on some equipment. First to fail was the DuoGen water driven electrical generator. It didn’t like constant speeds above 8 knots. It may not be cut out for life on a 50’ boat.

10-31-2007

We arrived at Turtle Bay at 1320 on the 31^st, still ahead of all but 5 boats. Altogether a fine performance by Snow Goose and her pick-up crew! After few minor repairs, we will leave again on the 3^rd of November.

7pm: Went into “town” for a beer and dinner. Very few boats have arrived so far, so “restaurant” was empty. We are tired but happy.

On another note, the long range e-mail system I had installed just before departing San Diego has worked extremely well. I’ve exchanged e-mails with the kids, Mom, and friends. I also get timely weather reports. It’s not like browsing the web, but it sure works!

11-3-2007

Leg 2 began at 0800 today. Sailed well until a small but necessary part caused a problem with the spinnaker. Took it down, and motored for a while. Then, on Day 2, when a better wind appeared, sailed again until the wind died 7 hours from Bahia Santa Maria. Motored the rest of the way, getting into the bay around midnight.

Bahia Santa Maria has only some fishermans shacks. Picturesque. A beach party was held the dafter our arrival: complications arose from large surf breaking on beach. Local fishermen provided water-taxi service to beach, but had to stop ferrying people back to boats at sunset due to size of swells (caused by storms in south Pacific). 75 people spent night on beach…including our crew, Greg. He’ll have stories to tell for years.

Nov 9:

Anchored in Cabo San Lucas. Have wi-fi with good signal!! Dinner in town last night! Mmmmmm, dinner. Will be here a few days, then sail to Isla Isabela bird sanctuary.

Our First Anchorage alone and in 200 ft of water: Seal Rock, Catalina (appropriately named by the barking seals all around) set us up for a 4am departure for San Diego. God bless Mike’s anchor! Sleeping to the sound of an occasional blast of breath from a curious seal was very exotic.

Taking out the trash is even fun in Gosling (Snow Gooses sister ship). What a great little dinghy! We practiced our first attempts at beach entries with great success. We buzzed around the harbor and checked out the amenities at various docks.

October 20th 2007:

We made it to San Diego in shifts. It was my first experience in seeing nothing but 360 degrees of ocean horizon. What a beautiful sail and a great feeling to arrive safe and sound at the destination that we had planned to make. San Diego harbor is massive and well used. Now we have to find our anchorage in miles of harbor. Mike is undaunted and all ready wearing a cruisers smile

Once again it was bittersweet to say goodbye to good friends. So we bid one another a promise to meet again in Tahiti (instead of saying goodbye).

Captain Mike partakes in a chilly dip. We thought we’d swim to visit Steve on Batucada (two boats down), but the water was so cold you could only stay in for a moment or two. Polar Bear Club here we come!

A quick dip in Avalon Bays 60 degree water sets the pace for the many good swims to come.

October 18 2007:

Later that day we arrive in Avalon to a beautiful day and a great friend (Steve of sail boat Batucada and his friend Bruce). The day couldn’t be more perfect (meeting up with friends, sharing laughs, the wine wasn’t bad either).

October 18 2007:

We meet our first cruising friend on the way to Catalina. Excitement is in the air as Snow Goose sails guided by a friendly dolphin. Who needs GPS when you have echo location?

October 17 2007:

Captain Mike pulls out of the 1300 dock of Villa Del Mar for the last time. It was an emotional moment as Snow Goose made her way out of Marina Del Rey Harbor. We were quiet for a long while: consumed with memories of great friendships, hopes for a safe passage, and dreams of the adventures ahead (or maybe Mike was just getting choked up thinking about the price of fuel in filling up his 500 gallon tanks in San Pedro).

October 16th 2007 (midnight):

Snow Goose awaits her new departure date for early tomorrow morning. Everything is tucked neatly away, all systems have been checked and re-checked, the Captain and Crew are ready, tanks are full, and food has been stowed. Hopefully no little gremlins have wiggled wires to postpone the departure again (i.e.: Carolyn and the freezer thermostat). The still night reflects the mood of all aboard (a pause before embarking on an unknown adventure).

October 14th 2007: Provisioning and Inventory

Provisioning is an all consuming activity. I have been dreaming about shopping lists for a week now. Thanks to Gail and Jeff (of Sea Witch) we doubled our shopping list. I know I’ll be thanking them especially when we get under way. Each tale they told of their circumnavigation came laced with so many helpful hints. Thank you!

Then on Sunday, we got down to the business of showing Carolyn "the ropes".....

Going Away...

Saturdays "going away" party was outstanding, bittersweet fun. We are leaving behind a group of wonderful friends, yet taking with us all of their best-wishes. There were, for me, numerous tender moments. MJM

In leaving Marina del Rey, and more specifically the 1300 Dock at Villa Del Mar, I leave behind some of the nicest neighbors I've ever had. Evidence: the flyer for the dock party we'll have on October 6th. Of course it could be that they just want to be sure I actually leave.......

Almost ready...

Snow Goose is almost ready to go. She was almost ready several months ago, and will be "almost ready" after we leave. "Ready" is a relative term used by the Captain to assure himself that he is both comfortable with the preparations and almost out of cash.

Crewmember Carolyn arrives Tuesday, in plenty of time to learn her way around the boat and a bit of seamanship, too. While her sailing experience is quite limited, her enthusiasm is vast. And her experience will be increasing quite soon. I predict a fine adventure.

Mike

Log of the Snow Goose

This blog will be used to share the thoughts and photos of the crew and Captain of the sailing yacht SNOW GOOSE as she and they prepare, and then embark, on a voyage south and west from southern California. Planned departure is October 29, 2007.

Cap'n Mike